

ARE
YOU A PACK LEADER?
editor's note: There are some
dog-owners who strongly support the idea that having dogs creates a
"pack" environment, and others who do not. I found this introduction
to the idea of a pack-structure to be very informative.
Introduction - Pack Structure
Any group of people and dogs residing
in a house will result in the formation of a pack. A pecking order will
naturally establish itself, the bossiest and most persistent usually
ending up as a pack leader. The dogs see their position simply as "we
are one pack united", humans tend to think "we are one family
and a few dogs". This difference of opinion causes confusion and
sometimes disharmony. Many humans cannot see that the dogs' pecking
order is closely integrated with their own. The highest ranking dog
or human is granted the most privileges by the rest of the pack and
becomes the pack leader, the less persistent less dominant individuals
slide down the ranks in order of ability to be persistent and/or dominant
and have either fewer privileges or none at all.
Although pack status is usually decided
through play, fights may ensue when two dogs see themselves as being
the same (or very similar) rank within the pack. This does not necessarily
mean they are both vying for pack leadership, indeed, they may be vying
for the 'next up from bottom' position.
Reasoning
From observation of our own set-up
(seven dogs and a family of four - plus a few 'rent-a-kids' which are
near-permanent pack-members) plus the frequent borders we have in, I
have witnessed pack hierarchy first-hand. With the arrival of each new
border comes a subtle struggle within the pack, the border eventually
finding a place within it. Prime spots such as the kitchen gate, the
back door and individual crates are guarded from borders so that regulars
do not loose rank. Interestingly, two of our bitches seem to hold the
same rank (No. 5). Chess is a 'daily' border and each morning there
is a 'battle' where Daisy, the permanent resident, will try to force
the her to submit with a paw or chin over the shoulder. Some days she
wins and is No. 5 (though only just) for the rest of the day, other
times she is resisted and ends up being pinned to the floor by Chess
and ends up being No. 6 (though only just) for the rest of the day.
From watching the interaction
between our 'pack' I have concluded that the pack leader is the human
or dog which holds the greatest respect from each and every member of
the pack, carries the weight of responsibility for the entire pack and
has the largest 'Bill-of-Rights'.
How I would set about achieving
the position?
If we define this 'Bill-of-Rights' first, then it becomes very obvious
how to achieve the position of Pack Leader.
Pack Leader 'Bill of Rights'
- To eat first, gorge themselves, and have any
pickings left over
- To stand, sit, or lie-down or have access to
the 'prime' spots within the household
- To control entry to, or exit from any room in
the house
- To proceed through all narrow openings first
- To initiate the hunt and dictate where to hunt
- To make the 'kill' at the end of the hunt
- To demand 'care-giving' behavior from subordinate
pack members
- To ignore or actively discourage unwanted attention
- To restrict the movements of lesser ranking dogs
- To win all tug of war games
- By examining all the above points and using our
natural advantage (superior brain power) becoming
- Pack Leader becomes a piece of cake. Theoretically!
To eat first, gorge themselves, and have any pickings left over
Since there are very few dogs around that have mastered the technique
of using a manual can-opener to open their dog food, it becomes relatively
easy to master the first point. After eating your breakfast you can
feed the dogs. (Pack Leader (you) eats first).
To stand, sit, or lie-down or have access to the 'prime' spots
within the household
Ensure you can have free access to all the places within the household
that your dogs view with great esteem. A cup of tea sitting in the dog's
bed will no doubt confirm your neighbors suspicions that you are indeed
completely potty, the dogs however will view the situation very differently
- you can 'occupy' their spot. If you take this one stage further and
restrict access to the upper floor of your house, or your bedroom it
reinforces the point that your 'superior' sleeping spot is inviolate,
theirs is not.
To control
entry to, or exit from any room in the house
A closed door effectively restricts the access to other parts of the
house, but should any of your dogs take to 'sleeping' in front of doorways
it should be actively discouraged by removing the dog from that spot
with a firm command of "move!". Do not step over the dog which
is constantly in your way - take the shortest route to your destination
and move the dog.
To proceed through all narrow openings
first
If the pack leader has the right to proceed through all narrow openings
first, start with a doorway. You should proceed first through the door.
This also applies to getting into and out of the car or entering any
narrow passageway.
To initiate the hunt and dictate where to hunt
If the dog is on a lead it becomes very difficult to initiate a hunt.
However, should the dog be off lead and heading for the hills on the
trail a rabbit, the situation becomes more tricky. Chasing the dog yelling
"come!" will only confirm his hunch that its just fine to
initiate a hunt. A piercing whistle (or what ever you can use to get
his attention) followed by rapid movement in the opposite direction
should be enough to make him realize his mistake, especially if points
1 to 4 have been carefully adhered to for some time.
To make the 'kill' at the end of the hunt
Ideally you should not let your dogs kill anything. If they are rabbit/cat/sheep
killers/chasers then they should be kept out of the way of temptation
until enough training has been given for you to be able to stop the
dogs mid flight and recall them to you EVERY time. (no mean feat). However,
there are times when dogs are specifically used for hunting small game,
especially if you live on a farm and are over-run with rabbits or vermin.
I have found the best way to maintain pack leadership in this circumstance
is to call the dog to you (praising the recall, not the kill) remove
the kill and carry it back to a safe place for disposal. (An incinerator
preempts any attempt to steal it when your back is turned). This way
you are still claiming the kill, it is your right to take it back to
the den for 'consumption' later.
To demand 'care-giving' behavior from subordinate
pack members
Infrequently and erratically call the dogs over when you want to give
them affection. Make them respond - don't give in to a sleepy grunt
by ignoring it.
To ignore or actively discourage unwanted attention
Totally ignore pawing, nudging, whining etc. If the behavior is really
persistent you should resort to a piercing icy glare and a firm command
"OFF!" to which can be added a firm shaking of the dog by
the scruff on either side of the dogs head.
To restrict the movements of lesser ranking dogs
Using an exercise called the 'Long Down' you can effectively
restrict the dog's movements for a period of time. Placing the dog on
the floor or commanding it to "Down!" you maintain the position
of the dog by constantly replacing it every time it gets up. Each dog's
mother will have done this until the puppy submitted during its early
development, and by following her example you are speaking to the dog
in a language it definitely understands, and you are saying that YOU
are the boss. This exercise necessitates endless patience on the part
of the handler. I would suggest the initial period of time for the 'Long
Down' exercise to be half an hour, with the handler sitting on the floor
adjacent to, but not touching the dog.
To
win all tug of war games
If you HAVE to play tug of war games with your dogs and are struggling
for pack leadership yourself, make sure you win each and every game.
If you can't, don't enter into them in the first place.
Conclusion
A dog in a pack environment is much happier than a solitary dog. Each
and every dog has a place within the pack. Ideally the Pack Leader should
be a human.
Written by Katie Rourke
for the Canine Human Interface Course
run by the John Fisher at the Animal Care College, United Kingdom